A lush, high-powered Aleatico dessert wine that converts the Puglian sunshine into red-cherry, dried-raisin sweetness and emits an intoxicating floral perfume that hints at the grape’s DNA links to Muscat. A very powerful wine, it stands up well to very mature, strongly flavoured cheeses and dry pastries.

A lush, high-powered Aleatico dessert wine that converts the Puglian sunshine into red-cherry, dried-raisin sweetness and emits an intoxicating floral perfume that hints at the grape’s DNA links to Muscat. A very powerful wine, it stands up well to very mature, strongly flavoured cheeses and dry pastries.

The 2010 d’Armailhac seems to be opening nicely on the nose with scents of raspberry, cranberry, brown spices and an underlying ferrous element. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and well-judged acidity. This feels harmonious and smoother in texture than many of its peers, tobacco and black pepper towards the finish. This is ready for business and should drink well over the next decade.

Bright medium ruby. Subtle, vinous aromas of blackcurrant, sour red cherry, violet and minerals. Sweet and silky on entry, then tight in the middle, showing terrific purity and verve to the flavors of red fruits, sweet spices and flowers. Finishes sappy and lightly saline, with fine tannins and outstanding length. This terrific, perfumed wine is heavily marked by its cabernet franc presence.

Organic Certified, Kate is surprising, fresh and elegant. It develops notes of exotic fruits and a good length. With its fun and flirty side, it will charm your taste buds.

Organic Certified, Kate is surprising, fresh and elegant. It develops notes of exotic fruits and a good length. With its fun and flity side, it will charm your taste buds.

Big, structure and flavour. Aniseed, inky deep fruit and menthol, gunflint. Fragrant lavender and high notes of spice and florals soar above the savoury density. Very much Minervois Rated 90/100 decanter & 16,5/20 by Jancis Robinson

Big, structure and flavour. Aniseed, inky deep fruit and menthol, gunflint. Fragrant lavender and high notes of spice and florals soar above the savoury density. Very much Minervois Rated 90/100 decanter & 16,5/20 by Jancis Robinson

Vegan. Woman’s wine and spirit award 2020 – Gold Medal. 5 star Decanter. Blind tasted by Ronan Sayburn MS Beth Willard Andy Howard MW(at Decanter’s Wines of the Year tasting, London, 15 Oct 2020) Part of Wines of the Year 2020: sparkling, sweet and fortified wines.

Vegan. Woman’s wine and spirit award 2020 – Gold Medal. 5 star Decanter. Blind tasted by Ronan Sayburn MS Beth Willard Andy Howard MW(at Decanter’s Wines of the Year tasting, London, 15 Oct 2020) Part of Wines of the Year 2020: sparkling, sweet and fortified wines.

The NV PN TX 17, 100% Pinot Noir from Tauxières, is the next wine in Bollinger’s new series of single-village Champagnes. Bright and punchy, the 2017 is redolent of pear, dried flowers, mint, chalk and sage. Aromatically, the 2017 could easily be mistaken for a Blanc de Blancs such is its purity, but the richness and resonance of Pinot are unmistakable on the palate. This is an especially, vinous, layered Champagne that offers striking interplay between its intense fruit and the mineral, saline and savory-laced frame that holds it all together. The only thing this could use is a bit more body, as it is a touch austere. Disgorged: February, 2022.

The NV PN TX 17, 100% Pinot Noir from Tauxières, is the next wine in Bollinger’s new series of single-village Champagnes. Bright and punchy, the 2017 is redolent of pear, dried flowers, mint, chalk and sage. Aromatically, the 2017 could easily be mistaken for a Blanc de Blancs such is its purity, but the richness and resonance of Pinot are unmistakable on the palate. This is an especially, vinous, layered Champagne that offers striking interplay between its intense fruit and the mineral, saline and savory-laced frame that holds it all together. The only thing this could use is a bit more body, as it is a touch austere. Disgorged: February, 2022.

Big names do not help if you are not familiar with a certain house style, and so I can understand everyone who dislikes Bollinger’s 2002 RD Extra Brut, which at first sight reveals a matured if not an old wine displaying toffee, floral (hyacinths, narcissus, sage), vegetal and spicy aromas (oak, cannabis, frankincense, black bread) — but almost no fruit (at least no fresh fruit). This wine was disgorged in March 2014, but just needs a lot of time in the glass to develop its complexity. On the palate this is a very pure, fresh, lively, firmly structured and almost ascetic wine with complexity, but almost no sensuality. Very distinctive style.

Good bright deep red. Pure but tight nose offers black cherry and menthol lifted by a floral topnote. Juicy and vibrant in the mouth, with sharp delineation to the flavors of blueberry, flowers and spices. Sappy, energetic wine with lovely underlying minerality. Finishes crisp and vital, with fine-grained tannins and very good length. Nicely showcases its light soil.

Good medium bright red. Ineffable aroma of musky strawberry, iron, smoke and dried rose. Silky, full and deep, with a seamless texture and captivating soil tones. As creamy and lush as this is, the dominant impression is one of delicacy and focus. Highly complex, extract-rich flavors of strawberry, minerals, mocha, earth and underbrush. A compelling wine of terroir whose captivating sweetness, fine tannins and superb persistence makes it almost deceptively drinkable today. But this big boy will be around for at least a couple of decades.

The 2010 Canon-la-Gaffelière has quite a compact nose, backward and rather surly compared to its peers. It feels a little Left Bank in style with light pencil shaving aromas developing. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, a fine bead of acidity, nicely structured with a grippy, quite spicy and forthright finish that feels reassuringly persistent.

Forward aromas of raspberry and cherry, then subtle spice and vanilla. A slick, modern style with no rough edges and integrated oak. Ripe, full, and ready, yet still fresh.

Intense ruby red tending to orange with cellaring. Generous and fruit-rich, with prominent notes of cherry, blackberry, and vanilla. Long-lingering, elegant, with well-balanced, glossy tannins

This wine is intense straw yellow in colour with gold reflections and has an elegant bouquet with scents of apple, quince and fresh almond and sage. The flavour is pleasantly crisp with an almond aftertaste.

Red ruby intense color with lighter garnet reflections, long persistent bouquet, particularly fine. This is a full body Harmonious, soft, pleasant tannic wine. 

It has a beautiful ruby red color with garnet reflections, the bouquet is intense, with hints of cherries and berries, the taste is soft, full and longlasting.

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot; 13.5% alcohol) Very deep ruby-purple color. Raspberry, smoke and a whiff of floral red cherry on the nose. Juicy, intense and almost sweet, with a lightly minty quality to the rich red fruit flavors. Nicely delicate, lively Pessac-Leognan, with a texture that’s more Burgundian than Bordeaux-like—at least at this stage of its development. The fresh finish features very good balance, smooth tannins and subtle length.

The 2010 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino brings the evening to a rapturous finish. The most anticipated wine of the night, the Cerbaiona shows why it belongs in the pantheon of the most epic wines ever made in Montalcino. A Brunello with no beginning and no end, the 2010 Cerbaiona just is. Every aroma, every shade of nuance, every texture is just…perfect. The 2010 has been nothing less than thrilling every time I have tasted it, going back to the days when it was a young wine in cask. It is every bit as magnificent on this night.  Drink 2018 – 2040.

The 2010 Ermitage l’Ermite (454 cases produced) is another perfect wine. Completely different than Le Pavillon, l’Ermite is always slightly more austere. It comes from a 7.5-acre parcel of sandy, granitic soils at the top of the Hill of Hermitage that produces both red and white compelling Hermitages, somewhat unusual in this tiny appellation. The black/purple-colored 2010 l’Ermite exhibits a tight, more mineral-dominated set of aromatics offering up hints of blue and black fruits, charcoal, steak tartare and an unmistakable floral note. This full-bodied, more austere and tannic effort reveals extraordinary weight, palate penetration and purity. It represents the concentrated essence of a specific site as well as the Syrah grape planted in this magical appellation. Forgot it for 10-15 years, possibly two decades, and drink it over the following 50-75 years.

The 2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir is soft, fruity and very easy to like. Crushed flower and raspberry notes give the 2017 lovely aromatic presence to match the wines gracious, mid-weight personality. This is an especially delicate, elegant style.

This magnificent, dense plum/purple-colored Pessac-Leognan reveals notes of scorched earth, burning embers, blackberries and truffles. Composed of Merlot and Cabernet Franc from a vineyard gorgeously situated between Malartic Lagraviere and Haut-Bailly, it possesses full-bodied power, a stunningly intense, voluptuous, layered mouthfeel and abundant levels of fruit, glycerin and tannin. The 2009 ranks alongside the magnificent 2000, which is aging at a glacial pace. Unfortunately, proprietress Helene Garcin only produces around 500 cases of this somewhat cult-ish Pessac-Leognan. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.

Pale peach in colour, this 2020 wine is very youthful with some pear drop character that will subside, a little cherry note and soft red berry fruits. On the palate, Whispering Angel’s trademark combination of elegant, cool precision with very easy-going, open and attractive fruitiness. Nicely textured, the raspberry fruit and edge of acidity is ripe but bone dry, and there’s a hint of stony minerality adding to the sophistication of the finish.

Pale gold. Knockout aromas of creme brulee, coconut, vanilla bean, honey and orange peel. Lush and seductively silky in the mouth; its creamy, seamless texture makes it seem deceptively accessible today but sound acid structure should keep it going for 20 years or more. Not hugely sweet or tropical but very complex and fine. Firm, hazelnutty finish offers great length, if not quite the grip of the ’89.

The 1996 Chateau Margaux, a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, must be a strong contender for wine of the vintage. It offers everything you desire from this First Growth. It is blessed with breathtaking delineation and freshness on the nose, understated at first and then blossoming with mineral-infused black fruit, hints of blueberry, crushed stone and violet. The palate is perfectly balanced with filigree tannin, perfect acidity, a wine where everything seems to be in its right place. Blackberry, crushed stone at the front of the mouth, just a touch of spice towards the finish that shows supreme control. This is a Margaux that seems to light up the senses. It was outstanding in its youth…something that has not changed one bit over the intervening two decades. This may well turn out to be the Left Bank pinnacle of the 1990s. Tasted July 2016.

The 2016 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux features fresh grapefruit, white peaches and lemon juice scents springing from the glass, followed by lime leaves, wet pebbles and elderflower plus a touch of honeysuckle. The palate is medium-bodied, elegant and fresh with loads of vivacity and a long, mineral-laced finish

Fresh and vibrant, red berries and citrus fruits. Lovely texture.

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Rich and fruity, lingering hints of citrus and spice.

A welcome return to form, the 2018 Ventoux Terrasses is a floral, herbal and red-fruited version of this unoaked cuvée. It’s medium to full-bodied, with ample concentration, velvety tannins and lovely hints of tea and spice on the long finish. It should drink well through 2024 or so.

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The spectacular 2003 Pontet Canet is still incredibly young and vigorous. This full-bodied classic boasts a dense purple color as well as a superb nose of graphite, creme de cassis, forest floor, licorice and a hint of truffles, low acidity, and extravagant richness. Most of the tannins have been resolved in this superstar of the vintage. It should continue to drink well for 10-15+ years.  Drink 2014 to 2029.

The 2010 Rieussec was missing a little intellect when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle it has become a contender for the finest Sauternes of the vintage. It is blessed with a pure and lifted bouquet with ripe peach, nectarine and honey, hints of shaved ginger poke their head above the surface with aeration. It is very subtle. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, perfectly judged acidity and convincing harmony. This is a sophisticated Sauternes with superb mineralite and outstanding persistency. I will confess that I pinned this as “Yquem” and was both shocked and pleased when its identity was revealed. Go buy. Drink 2016-2035.

Extremely young with an unbelievable deep purple color, the 2000 Troplong Mondot has hardly budged since I tasted it in 2003. Two recent tastings confirmed that this is the greatest Troplong Mondot between their profound 1990 and more recent vintages such as 2005, 2008, and 2009. Copious chocolate, graphite, blackberry, blueberry, cassis, and ink characteristics are present in this full-bodied, powerful, massive St.-Emilion. While the tannins are noticeable, they are better integrated than they were seven years ago, and the fruit, extract, and richness clearly outweigh the wine’s structure. This 2000 will benefit from another 4-5 years of cellaring (longer than I originally predicted), and has at least two decades of drinkability ahead of it.  Drink 2014 to 2034.

This ruby red wine is very complex and elegant with aromas of red currant, red cherries, black berries with spicy overtones such as lavender, thyme and rosemary. Excellent balance in the mouth, tannins are elegant and silky. Due to the combination of the sandy subsoil and the Grenache, the wine is showing finesse and elegance.

Pencil shavings, date, prune and licorice notes abound. There’s awesome Christmas spice flavors and layers of fruitcake in this massive, full-bodied wine that definitely won’t be for everyone, but it represents one unique style of Barossa Shiraz.

Deep garnet colored with lingering hints of purple, the 2007 Hoffman Vineyard Shiraz reveals a lovely aromatic core of warm blueberries and plums with hints of dark chocolate-covered cherries, Christmas pudding and coffee. Full-bodied, rich and vibrant in the mouth, the mocha and baking spices flavors are married nicely to medium levels of velvety tannins plus enlivening and balanced acid through the long finish. Decadent.

Deep garnet-black in color, the 2008 Hoffman Vineyard Shiraz has a seductive nose of prunes, dried mulberries, chocolate box and licorice with hints of sandalwood, incense, and cinnamon stick. The palate is bold and buxom, with a generously endowed full body and 17.5%-declared alcohol, with robust flavors to match and velvety tannins, finishing just a little warm.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2010 Hoffman Vineyard Shiraz possesses an extraordinary nose of cassis, crushed blackberries, earth, Bovril and yeast extract with licorice, spice box and dried herbs hints. Full-bodied, rich and densely packed, with a lovely backbone of ripe tannins and great freshness, the long finish here is just incredible. A true “wow” wine, this complex beauty certainly has the potential to hit “perfection” with a little more time in bottle.

2012 Hoffmann Vineyard Shiraz is a tour de force. Between the mint and floral aromas, vanilla oak and deep, plummy fruit, you’ll forgive me if I didn’t notice this wine’s considerable alcohol (it’s 15.6%). Full-bodied, rich and supple, the long, licorice-tinged finish is swaddled in the softest, most-cuddly tannins imaginable. This is a beauty!

Clarendon Hills’ flagship 2007 Syrah Astralis. Aromas of pain grille, pencil lead, tar, underbrush, meat, licorice, and blackberry lead to a burly finish. It has tremendous grip, plenty of fine-grained tannin, layers of savory fruit.

Clarendon Hills’ flagship 2007 Syrah Astralis. Aromas of pain grille, pencil lead, tar, underbrush, meat, licorice, and blackberry lead to a burly finish. It has tremendous grip, plenty of fine-grained tannin, layers of savory fruit.

The exquisite 2006 Syrah Piggott Range is more structured yet. Thick, dense, and tightly wound, all the components are there for future greatness. Only patience is required.

Straw-yellow. Nicely perfumed nose, fresh herbs, white-fleshed fruits (pear) and white flowers. Expressive, savoury palate.

2003 The Dead Arm Shiraz appears to be better than the 2002. A deeper, richer, fuller-bodied offering that spent time in equal parts French and American oak, it possesses an opaque purple color, great intensity, and a fabulously sweet nose of blackberries, cassis, asphalt, earth, and oak. Powerful, super-concentrated, and obviously fashioned from low yields and old vines, this is a classic McLaren Vale old vine Shiraz.

The High Trellis is a wine of great presence, loaded with classic Cabernet Sauvignon characters of cassis, plums, cedar, red capsicum and violets. Despite the depth and complexity of the fruit, the palate remains true to Cabernet form, providing a sleek mouthfeel framed by a long line of fine, chalky tannins. Powerful, aromatic, persistent and charming all at once. While this wine offers enough fruit to be enjoyed in youth, expect 5-8 further years of careful cellaring to enhance its overall quality and enjoyment.

The High Trellis is a wine of great presence, loaded with classic Cabernet Sauvignon characters of cassis, plums, cedar, red capsicum and violets. Despite the depth and complexity of the fruit, the palate remains true to Cabernet form, providing a sleek mouthfeel framed by a long line of fine, chalky tannins. Powerful, aromatic, persistent and charming all at once. While this wine offers enough fruit to be enjoyed in youth, expect 5-8 further years of careful cellaring to enhance its overall quality and enjoyment.

Aromas of raspberry, cherries and dried herbs introduce the 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Les Sizies, a medium-bodied, chalky wine with a delicate core of tangy fruit and a moderately intense finish. A touch of asperity marks it out as one of de Montille’s less successful 2017s, though it may well flesh out in bottle.

Full yellow-gold. Deeply pitched, brooding nose hints at white peach, mirabelle and honey. Big, chewy, ripe and rich, with smoky soil tones currently dominating the wine’s primary fruit. This is tactile and surprisingly round for young Corton-Charlemagne but will need patience to express itself. Its sheer density and length suggest it will reward extended cellaring.

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Village comes from eight different blocks instead of the usual nine, as the Les Crots has been bottled separately. It has a simple but effective bouquet of red cherries and cranberry jus aromas. The candied palate is well balanced, offering sappy red fruit, gentle grip and a lightly spiced finish. Fine.

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Perrière Blanc offers up attractive aromas of fresh Anjou pear, wet stones, lemon oil, red apples and pastry cream. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, tangy and incisive, with an elegantly textural attack and a notably chalky, phenolic profile that this cuvée always seems to display. It’s a singular wine that is well worth seeking out.

Made in a more masculine style, the 2008 Dominus has all of that along with bigger body and more structure, fat, density and texture. Both are brilliant wines and they represent the finest back-to-back vintages for Dominus since 2001 and 2002 or 1990 and 1991. Both the 2007 and 2008 Dominus should drink well for 25-30 years.

A step up over the other two single vineyard releases, the 2011 Cote Rotie la Landonne is an incredible wine that knocks it out of the park in the vintage. Its inky purple/ruby color is followed by to-die-for notes of cassis, black olives, truffles, graphite and crushed rock. Full-bodied, massively concentrated, thick and unctuous, it has the vintage’s flamboyant fruit profile, yet backs it up with a stacked mid-palate, serious amounts of tannin and a finish that just won’t quit. It’s relatively approachable now due to its glycerin and fat, yet needs a decade of cellaring and will knock your socks off over the following two decades or more.  Drink 2015 – 2035

Savoury, bone-dry white blend with a nutty flavour that blends almonds and walnuts and a refreshing saline note on the finish.

2007 Gazin is spicy, but the oak component is more restrained than normal. It is a relatively big-styled wine for a 2007, with impressive richness, a dark ruby/purple color, notes of lead pencil shavings, ink, black currants, sweet dark plums, and balsamic. Cellar it for 1-2 years and consume it over the following 10-15.

Medium bright ruby. Sappy aromas of black cherry, blackberry, violet and sassafras. Fresh and juicy, with nicely textured, concentrated flavours of dark berries, bitter chocolate and spices. This solidly structured Pomerol finishes with firm but ripe tannins and lovely floral perfume. Well done.

The 2007 Cascina Francia is unusually dark, rich and powerful. The floral, herbal notes that are typical in young Cascina Francia have been replaced by deeper notes of tar, smoke and licorice to match the layers of intense dark fruit. The 2007 is powerful and imposing from start to finish. It is going to be a fascinating Barolo to follow over the coming years and decades. Cascina Francia is often accessible for the first year or two after it has been bottled. That has not been my experience with the 2007. It seems already headed for a period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037.

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Aged 18 months in French oak, the fabulous 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Cyril Henschke (a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, and equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot) is a blockbuster example of how well Bordeaux varietals can perform in the Barossa, in this case the cooler Eden Valley. Its dense purple color is followed by an extraordinary nose of black currants, smoke, high class cigar tobacco, cedar, spice, and subtle sweet oak. Deep, full-bodied, and intense with a multilayered mouthfeel, an explosive finish, and moderately high tannin, this cuvee will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age, and should evolve for two decades or more.  Drink 2008 – 2026.

Purple/black in color, it offers up a brooding bouquet of toast, smoke, violets, blueberry, blackberry, and Asian spices. Dense and layered on the palate, this well-balanced effort.

The 2006 Gregor Shiraz is made from fruit dried on trays in the style of Amarone. It has a liqueur, Port-like character to its aromas and flavors although it is dry. Notes of licorice and chocolate as well as assorted black fruits make an appearance on the palate.

The 2006 Gregor Shiraz is made from fruit dried on trays in the style of Amarone. It has a liqueur, Port-like character to its aromas and flavors although it is dry. Notes of licorice and chocolate as well as assorted black fruits make an appearance on the palate.

The 2006 Shiraz-Viognier is noticeably lighter in color. It is more expressive aromatically because of the Viognier component but is less voluminous on the palate leading to a slightly compact finish.

The 2006 Shiraz-Viognier is noticeably lighter in color. It is more expressive aromatically because of the Viognier component but is less voluminous on the palate leading to a slightly compact finish.

Il Marroneto’s 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is a beautiful wine and one that invites you to partake in a long evening of good food and even better company. This is a deeply convivial expression of Sangiovese that offers just a glimmer of much-needed informality and coziness to guarantee comfort. But make no mistake, this Brunello reminds you of its pedigree and precision as well. The bouquet opens to white cherry, fragrant rose blossom and violets. The finish is smooth and pliable, with graceful endnotes of smoke and crushed mineral.

Il Marroneto’s 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is a beautiful wine and one that invites you to partake in a long evening of good food and even better company. This is a deeply convivial expression of Sangiovese that offers just a glimmer of much-needed informality and coziness to guarantee comfort. But make no mistake, this Brunello reminds you of its pedigree and precision as well. The bouquet opens to white cherry, fragrant rose blossom and violets. The finish is smooth and pliable, with graceful endnotes of smoke and crushed mineral.

Il Marroneto’s 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is a beautiful wine and one that invites you to partake in a long evening of good food and even better company. This is a deeply convivial expression of Sangiovese that offers just a glimmer of much-needed informality and coziness to guarantee comfort. But make no mistake, this Brunello reminds you of its pedigree and precision as well. The bouquet opens to white cherry, fragrant rose blossom and violets. The finish is smooth and pliable, with graceful endnotes of smoke and crushed mineral.

Full yellow color. Musky aromas of ripe peach, lime and brown spices. Densely packed and lively; distinctly powerful for Bienvenue. Highly concentrated citrus and crushed stone flavors give the wine a vibrant, piercing back end. A very backward, long grand cru with terrific energy for aging.

Krug’s 1998 Brut Vintage is an excellent choice for drinking today, as the classic Krug style is rich, alive and totally vivid. Honey, almonds, smoke, graphite and dried apricots are some of the many aromas and flavors found in this rich, enveloping Champagne. A wine of texture and depth, the 1998 impresses for its vinous personality and terrific balance. Lively veins of underlying acidity suggest the 1998 will drink well for many years to follow. This is one of the best bottles of the 1998 I have ever tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2038.

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The 2014 l’If has a pretty bouquet, quite intense with hints of licorice infusing the bright and vivid black cherry and blueberry fruit. With time, there is an intriguing melted tar scent. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannin. This l’If seems to have tightened up since I tasted it from barrel, yet it retains impressive focus and energy, long and tender in the mouth with that licorice touch returning on the finish. Excellent

Aromas of black cherries, blueberries, licorice, dried lavender, nutmeg and grated milk chocolate. Pure raspberries, walnut husks and crushed peppercorns as well. It’s full-bodied with firm, racy tannins that go on for minutes. So sleek and polished with a long finish. Really amazing and perhaps the best wine ever from here. Same ownership as the legendary Le Pin from Pomerol. Slightly more cabernet franc (30% instead of 20%) in the blend may have made the difference. The rest is merlot. Clearly the best wine ever from here, since the official first vintage 2011.

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 La Violette sails out of the glass with expressive scents of baked plums, blueberry preserves and blackberry pie plus suggestions of spice cake, chocolate box and powdered cinnamon. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers mouth-coating black fruits with a firm, fine-grained frame and long, fragrant finish.

Sophisticated Rhône Syrah combines savoury fruit flavours with tar, leather and a touch of spicy oak. Outstanding with rich red meat dishes, game or even hard cheese at the end of a meal.

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Complex, mature, elegant and stylish, this silky, rich, full bodied white has a balancing acidity that will ensure even further complexity is achieved in years to come. 35% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Gris and 30% Pinot Blanc.

Pale gold in colour the wine displays hazelnut, fennel and marzipan characters on the nose. The palate has a touch of white pepper spice, is incredibly generous and complex and boasts a long broad palate with a gripping astringency and smooth, long finish. Enjoy with oily meats and spicy dishes.

Cherry red with vibrant translucency the wine displays raspberry and clove characters on the nose. The palate is elegant and rich, underpinned by an earthyspiciness and a long finish. The wine will gain further complexity with aging and reward the patient collector.

Cherry red with vibrant translucency the wine displays raspberry and clove characters on the nose. The palate is elegant and rich, underpinned by an earthyspiciness and a long finish. The wine will gain further complexity with aging and reward the patient collector.

Pale straw in colour with some evident peach, honeysuckle and smoky characters, this complex wine displays a fullness and roundness rarely found in English wines. The palate is structured, full bodied, rich and silky backbone of acidity and layered nuances of multifaceted almost red wines characters.

The 2006 Cristal shows rich and ripe (tropical) fruit on the nose along with delicate brioche notes. Round and textured on the palate, this is a generous but fresh, fine and salty Cristal with a very long and greatly finessed finish. Tasted in New York, November 2018.

Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon calls Cristal “the first terroir cuvée of the Champagne.” He furthers, “It’s not just Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, but the chalk that brings the ultimate finesse, length and precision of Cristal.” Forty-five blocks with averaging age of 43-years-old, low-yielding vines form the base of Cristal, which is usually made of approximately 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. This Champagne comes along in a golden color and with a deep and matured, yet well-defined bouquet of ripe yellow fruits and honey notes. Full-bodied, round and very complex, the generous 2007 is a perfect mix of ripe fruit and precise minerality. It is a silky textured, pure and precise, as well as powerful and expressive Champagne. It has great tension and grip in the very long and persistent finish. Great expression of chalk.

The Louis Roederer 1990 Cristal is awesome! A classic of power and finesse, richness and delicacy, it may be the greatest Cristal I have ever tasted!

Aromas of clear honey, crisp green orchard fruit, white peach, pastry cream and dried white flowers introduce the 2012 Cristal, a full-bodied, concentrated and powerful wine that’s built for the cellar. Broader, more textural and more muscular than the 2008 Cristal, with seemingly even greater reserves of structuring dry extract, the 2012 is incisive and searingly chalky. This is the first Cristal produced exclusively from organically farmed fruit, and it marks the opening of a new chapter for Louis Roderer. The blend is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, vinified without malolactic fermentation and disgorged with 7.5 grams per liter dosage. Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon has once again excelled himself.  Drink 2022 – 2050.

Roederer’s 2002 Cristal is a fabulous wine! Originally released in 2009, it was re-released in March this year—and was sold out in a very short time. The Cristal I tasted at Roederer in May 2018 was disgorged in 2010, after seven years sur lie. Its amazing richness and concentration makes it a forerunner of the 2015 and follows the 1999. Only two times—2002 and 2015—the fruit from all 42 plots reserved for Cristal was used for the Cristal. “I couldn’t do any better blend than the one assembling all the 42 plots,” says Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, stressing that at that time only two hectares were farmed biodynamically. As a result of the conversion to biodynamic farming, Lécaillon promised himself the production of even more beautiful, vital and balanced wines, and you can feel his satisfaction whenever he speaks of the cuvées that are yet to come such as 2012 and 2015, the latter of which he calls “the new 2002.” Back to history: the nose of the 2002 Cristal shows a deep, ripe and elegant fruit with aromas of white chocolate, wet chalk, wild vanilla and pepper (typical for 2002) as well as terroir-driven truffle notes. Intense and very elegant in the mouth, this is a ripe, rich and concentrated yet also pure and vital Cristal with great finesse, elegance and mineral complexity. It’s a sublime Champagne right now, although it’s more wine than Champagne. Drink 2018-2050.

Fleshing out beautifully since I tasted it from barrel last year, the 2013 Pinot Noir Mt Carmel Vineyard 3 5 offers lots of minerality and saltiness to go with darker-based fruits, crushed violets and cassis. Slightly reserved aromatically, it hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, a supple, expansive texture and a big finish. Fermented with a tiny 5% whole-cluster and aged 11 months in 48% new French oak, it’s an incredible Pinot Noir that has no problem standing beside the more expensive Mt Carmel bottling. Drink it anytime over the coming decade.

Fleshing out beautifully since I tasted it from barrel last year, the 2013 Pinot Noir Mt Carmel Vineyard 3 5 offers lots of minerality and saltiness to go with darker-based fruits, crushed violets and cassis. Slightly reserved aromatically, it hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, a supple, expansive texture and a big finish. Fermented with a tiny 5% whole-cluster and aged 11 months in 48% new French oak, it’s an incredible Pinot Noir that has no problem standing beside the more expensive Mt Carmel bottling. Drink it anytime over the coming decade.

The 2010 Malartic-Lagravière has a classic Left Bank bouquet with cedar and tobacco infused black fruit that unfurl nicely in the glass and gain intensity with every swirl. The palate is silky smooth on the entry, a satin textured Pessac-Léognan with well-judged acidity and an intense black cherry and blueberry finish, a tang of sea salt on the aftertaste. Excellent. 

The 2012 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard, which comes primarily from the Calera clone, always seems to remind me of a grand cru from Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits, particularly Morey-St.-Denis. Dense ruby/plum, its sweet nose of strawberries, black cherry liqueur, fresh porcini mushrooms and forest floor is followed by a dark, full-bodied, rich and concentrated wine that is supple, dramatic, and even flamboyant. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.

The 2015 Tignanello is a wine that opens, like a fully blossomed rose, right in front of you. This vintage is immediately accessible, generous and opulent. The wine will surely flesh out and gain focus with more bottle age, but one of the best qualities of this vintage is just how beautiful the wine tastes straight out of the gate. The fruit is beautifully ripe with fresh blackberry and cherry nuances, spice, leather, sweet tobacco and smoke. Up until this vintage, the various blending components that make up Tignanello were vinifed in separate lots. Starting with 2015, the wine is blended sooner in order to achieve better overall integration. The entire Tignanello estate counts 130 hectares of vines, but the single-vineyard “Tignanello” that makes this wine is 57 hectares. Some 340,000 bottles were produced. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2040.

To hit the market in June, the 2016 Tignanello is a rock-solid wine and a stunning beauty. The wine offers an impeccable level of precision and laser-focus delivery of fruits, spices, tilled earth, espresso beans and Mediterranean herbs. This vintage follows the classic blending formula of 80% Sangiovese with about 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc. The vines are now 15 to 20 years old. Compared to the 2015 vintage that ultimately appeared more chewy and succulent, this expression from the iconic 2016 vintage is more vibrant, nervous and jazzed. It shows more savory spice, saltiness and minerality, with a beautifully integrated quality of tannins. Some 320,000 bottles were produced. This wine is at the top of the list of some of the best Tignanello ever made, including the vintages 2007, 2009, 2010, 2013 and 2015.  Anticipated maturity: 2020-2045.

To hit the market in June, the 2016 Tignanello is a rock-solid wine and a stunning beauty. The wine offers an impeccable level of precision and laser-focus delivery of fruits, spices, tilled earth, espresso beans and Mediterranean herbs. This vintage follows the classic blending formula of 80% Sangiovese with about 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc. The vines are now 15 to 20 years old. Compared to the 2015 vintage that ultimately appeared more chewy and succulent, this expression from the iconic 2016 vintage is more vibrant, nervous and jazzed. It shows more savory spice, saltiness and minerality, with a beautifully integrated quality of tannins. Some 320,000 bottles were produced. This wine is at the top of the list of some of the best Tignanello ever made, including the vintages 2007, 2009, 2010, 2013 and 2015.  Anticipated maturity: 2020-2045.

100% Nebbiolo, ruby red color with garnet reflections. Intense aroma with clear hints of rose, vanilla, spices and toasted oak. The note of absinthe is faded. Full and elegant taste, full-bodied, with soft and enveloping tannins. Spice and the woody note that blend perfectly.

100% Cortese, in the glass I Ronchetti shows a clear straw yellow colour. The aromas are intense and typical for the variety, with scents of banana and citrus fruits. On the palate it is extremely dry and elegant. The intense minerality and the typical aftertaste bitter almond makes this Gavi a wine of superior level.

100% Nebbiolo, in the glass IMMA shows a clear ruby red. The aromas are complex, notes of plum, spices, red berries and violet. On the palate it well integrated in it’s structure. It’s long and persistant with a fruity and spiced finish. Drink or hold a few years.

Deep and bright ruby red with an idea of garnet shades, of great consistency. Very complex on the nose with sensations of wild berries and cherries in alcohol, then violet and fern, black pepper and cloves, on a bottom of graphite and cocoa powder, everything framed by a strong balsamic air. Great in the mouth, where power and elegance compete for the scene, where freshness and sapidity give it a fantastic drinkability, while tannins gently caress the palate preparing it for a neverending persistence.

A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon with dollops of Cabernet Franc and Malbec, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon MR is very deep purple-black in color and gives up bold scents of baked blueberries, plum preserves, spice cake and mocha with hints of chargrilled meats, sandalwood and dusty soil plus a waft of garrigue. Full, concentrated and packed with black fruit preserves and savory layers, it has a solid yet plush frame and very long, spicy finish. 580 cases produced.

A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon with dollops of Cabernet Franc and Malbec, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon MR is very deep purple-black in color and gives up bold scents of baked blueberries, plum preserves, spice cake and mocha with hints of chargrilled meats, sandalwood and dusty soil plus a waft of garrigue. Full, concentrated and packed with black fruit preserves and savory layers, it has a solid yet plush frame and very long, spicy finish. 580 cases produced.

The 2009 Dom Pérignon is open, seductive and radiant, as it has always been. Soft curves, mid-weight structure and tons of plain allure make the 2009 impossible to resist in its youth. This bottle, the best I have tasted so far, offers a distinc citrus and floral-driven profile that adds a good deal of brightness. Above all else, the 2009 is a gorgeous Champagne to drink now and over then next few decades. This is the first time in the house’s history that a vintage was not released sequentially.

The 2009 Dom Pérignon is open, seductive and radiant, as it has always been. Soft curves, mid-weight structure and tons of plain allure make the 2009 impossible to resist in its youth. This bottle, the best I have tasted so far, offers a distinc citrus and floral-driven profile that adds a good deal of brightness. Above all else, the 2009 is a gorgeous Champagne to drink now and over then next few decades. This is the first time in the house’s history that a vintage was not released sequentially.

Sauvignon Blanc plus a splash of Sémillon from California, perfumed with cedar, dried herbs and fresh straw, then delivering a juicy mouthful of ripe peach and passion fruit and finishing on a tangy shot of grapefruit and lemon zest.

Rich red blend from California, ripe plums jostling with boysenberries and cherries, with a beguiling perfume of crème de cassis and vanilla.

Quintessential Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, juicy with raspberry, blackberry and ripe cherry and perfumed with star anise, five spice and black tea.

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Elegant and sapid taste with aromas of ripe fruits and a spicy, complex, long finish, spicy and complex.

Elegant and sapid taste with aromas of ripe fruits and a spicy, complex, long finish, spicy and complex.

Crisp, wild berries, gooseberry and raspberry, silky palace and a clear, light appearance.

The flagship 2002 Brut Clos des Goisses is simply stunning in this vintage. Seamless, ripe and beguiling, the 2002 is pure harmony in the glass. Dried pears, apricots, flowers, red berries and spices are some of the many notes that inform this towering, aristocratic wine. At once vertical yet endowed with serious length, the 2002 stands out for its breathtaking balance and overall sense of harmony. Layers of fruit built to the huge, creamy finish. This is a great showing from Philipponnat. The 2002 was disgorged in June 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2032.

The flagship 2002 Brut Clos des Goisses is simply stunning in this vintage. Seamless, ripe and beguiling, the 2002 is pure harmony in the glass. Dried pears, apricots, flowers, red berries and spices are some of the many notes that inform this towering, aristocratic wine. At once vertical yet endowed with serious length, the 2002 stands out for its breathtaking balance and overall sense of harmony. Layers of fruit built to the huge, creamy finish. This is a great showing from Philipponnat. The 2002 was disgorged in June 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2032.

(a blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon and 18% merlot; 80% new oak; a 50% selection for the grand vin; cropped at 30 hectoliters per hectare): Opaque inky-purple. Inky graphite and cedar notes complicate rich, deep cassis aromas on the refined nose. Youthfully chewy and tannic on the palate, with a saline mineral quality complicating the deep black fruit and smoky herb flavors. The long finish features a repeating mineral tang.

Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico Dorilli represents for us the quintessence of this noble wine. It is produced from careful selection of the vines surrounding the unique and beautiful Dorilli estate, named for the nearby river Dirillo, landing place of brave Aeneas. A refined and elegant expression of the union of the noble Nero d’Avola with Frappato di Vittoria, the Iblean vine par excellence, lightly distinguished by maturation in wood. 

Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico Dorilli represents for us the quintessence of this noble wine. It is produced from careful selection of the vines surrounding the unique and beautiful Dorilli estate, named for the nearby river Dirillo, landing place of brave Aeneas. A refined and elegant expression of the union of the noble Nero d’Avola with Frappato di Vittoria, the Iblean vine par excellence, lightly distinguished by maturation in wood. 

Soft red from the Sicilian Nerello Mascalese grape, packed with plums, raspberries and green tomato leaves.

Soft red from the Sicilian Nerello Mascalese grape, packed with plums, raspberries and green tomato leaves.

Named for a pretty, purple Sicilian flower, this is a pretty, purple wine, its aromas of ripe plums, wild blackberries and jasmine surpassed in the mouth by chocolate, forest floor and black truffle.

Named for a pretty, purple Sicilian flower, this is a pretty, purple wine, its aromas of ripe plums, wild blackberries and jasmine surpassed in the mouth by chocolate, forest floor and black truffle.

Named for a pretty, purple Sicilian flower, this is a pretty, purple wine, its aromas of ripe plums, wild blackberries and jasmine surpassed in the mouth by chocolate, forest floor and black truffle.

Aromatic, rounded white from a native Sicilian variety that’s full of tropical fruit: apricots, lychees and pineapples jostle for prominence on the tongue.

Aromatic, rounded white from a native Sicilian variety that’s full of tropical fruit: apricots, lychees and pineapples jostle for prominence on the tongue.

Mouthwatering Portuguese white, herbaceous and filled with apples and grapefruit, with the classic refreshing hint of spritz.

Mouthwatering Portuguese white, herbaceous and filled with apples and grapefruit, with the classic refreshing hint of spritz.

Of the wines tasted in this historic retrospective, this is the bottle that most surprised and delighted me. The Tua Rita 2014 Redigaffi is a real showstopper with an assembly of fresh and especially aromatic fruit and floral details. The wine is medium lean in consistency, as you might expect from one of the coolest (and wettest) vintages that coastal Tuscany has seen in our lifetimes. There is wild cherry, cranberry, violet, lavender, mint, white pepper, dried spice and the list could go on. I’m giving it a higher score than I gave on the occasion of my first tasting many years ago.

The 2017 Monte Bello continues to develop beautifully. A heady, opulent wine, the 2017 also has tons of supporting structure to balance things out. Layers of dark red/purplish fruit give the 2017 remarkable primary intensity, with hints of licorice, mocha, dried flowers and menthol that build over time, hinting at the wine’s ultimate potential. Sensual and exotic, but with plenty of tannic clout, the 2017 has a very bright future. Today, it is decidedly explosive. In 2017, the berries were small, and that high skin-to-juice ratio yielded a Monte Bello that is quite imposing in the early going.

The 2017 Monte Bello continues to develop beautifully. A heady, opulent wine, the 2017 also has tons of supporting structure to balance things out. Layers of dark red/purplish fruit give the 2017 remarkable primary intensity, with hints of licorice, mocha, dried flowers and menthol that build over time, hinting at the wine’s ultimate potential. Sensual and exotic, but with plenty of tannic clout, the 2017 has a very bright future. Today, it is decidedly explosive. In 2017, the berries were small, and that high skin-to-juice ratio yielded a Monte Bello that is quite imposing in the early going.

One of the highlights in this tasting, the 2016 Monte Bello has turned out just as beautifully as I hoped it would. Soaring aromatics, bright acids and mid-weight structure give the 2016 a super-classic feel. Clearly, the 2016 is very primary today, with plenty of bright red and purplish berry fruit. More than that, though, the 2016 pulses with energy and simply exceptional balance. Don’t miss it!

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The finest wine ever made by proprietors Daniel and Florence Cathiard, the 2009 Smith-Haut-Lafitte exhibits an opaque blue/purple color in addition to a glorious nose of acacia flowers, licorice, charcoal, blueberries, black raspberries, lead pencil shavings and incense. This massive, extraordinarily rich, unctuously textured wine may be the most concentrated effort produced to date, although the 2000, 2005 and 2010 are nearly as prodigious. A gorgeous expression of Pessac-Leognan with sweet tannin, emerging charm and delicacy, and considerable power, depth, richness and authority, it should age effortlessly for 30-40+ years. Bravo!

The grand vin, the 2011 Smith-Haut-Lafitte is another great success (and that’s saying something after the remarkable duo of 2009 and 2010 as well as the brilliant 2008). This wine exhibits a dense purple colour along with a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, mulberries, liquorice and subtle background oak. Full-bodied with silky tannins, nicely integrated acidity, wood and alcohol, a multilayered mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts 45 seconds, this brilliant wine should drink well for 15-20 years. One of the best-run estates in Bordeaux, Smith-Haut-Lafitte’s owners, the Cathiard family, has produced a beautiful second wine in 2011.

A stunning wine with hints of pineapple, caramelized citrus, mandarin oranges, smoky figs and hazelnuts, this is a full-bodied, rich, superb white Graves from the Cathiard family.

The fruit for the 2005 Shiraz came from nearly 100 year old vines and spent 36 months in seasoned French barriques. Deep garnet-purple colored, it is vibrant and floral at this stage with notes of chocolate, creme de cassis, game, mint and anise. The palate is fine and complex, with a good backbone of high acid, medium level of fine-grained tannins and a long harmonious finish. It’s drinking now and should continue to do so until 2020+.

Dried flowers, peach, lime and oak on the nose. Medium bodied, a bit of weight from the residual sugar with the acidity to balance it out. Ends with lime and apricot.

Pale gold colour. The typical full, fruity, soft character of the chardonnay and the aromatic notes of the wood are evident on the nose. A round wine, with well-defined mediterranean scents, full-bodied and satisfying with along and lingering finish.

Pale gold colour. The typical full, fruity, soft character of the chardonnay and the aromatic notes of the wood are evident on the nose. A round wine, with well-defined mediterranean scents, full-bodied and satisfying with along and lingering finish.

Powerful, pleasant and deep, characterized by a well-present tannic texture and reminiscent of velvet. It closes with an important, long finish that returns to vague hints of spices

Scent of berries, plums, liquorice and black pepper. The taste is enveloping with soft and silky tannins.

Pale yellow in colour with greenish flex, scent of apple, pineapple with floral and mineral tones, smooth and aromatic.

Pale yellow in colour with greenish flex, scent of apple, pineapple with floral and mineral tones, smooth and aromatic.

The 2005 Descendant is composed of 92% Shiraz and 8% Viognier which are co-fermented. The fruit is sourced from a relatively young vineyard in Marananga planted with 11-year-old cuttings from the Run Rig vineyards and aged for 18 months in 2.5-year-old French barrels previously used for Run Rig. Opaque purple, with glass-coating glycerin, it offers up a complex array of lavender, violets, blueberry, blackberry, and fresh road tar. Full-bodied, on the palate the wine has great concentration with a noticeable uplift from the Viognier, gobs of spicy black fruits, opulence, and well-concealed tannins which will carry this wine for 10-15 years of further evolution. Drink it through 2030.

The 2005 Descendant is composed of 92% Shiraz and 8% Viognier which are co-fermented. The fruit is sourced from a relatively young vineyard in Marananga planted with 11-year-old cuttings from the Run Rig vineyards and aged for 18 months in 2.5-year-old French barrels previously used for Run Rig. Opaque purple, with glass-coating glycerin, it offers up a complex array of lavender, violets, blueberry, blackberry, and fresh road tar. Full-bodied, on the palate the wine has great concentration with a noticeable uplift from the Viognier, gobs of spicy black fruits, opulence, and well-concealed tannins which will carry this wine for 10-15 years of further evolution. Drink it through 2030.

The flagship 2004 Run Rig is 96.5% Shiraz and 3.5% Viognier with the Shiraz component aged for 30 months in a mixture of new and used French oak. Yields were a minuscule 14 hl/ha (about 1 ton per acre). Saturated opaque purple/black, it has a remarkably kinky, exotic perfume of fresh asphalt, pencil lead, smoke, pepper, game, blueberry and black raspberry. Full-bodied and voluptuous in the mouth, the wine is dense and packed, with amazing purity, sweet tannins, and a complex collection of sensory stimuli. The wine demands 10 years of cellaring and will provide hedonistic delights through 2035+.

From Two Hands’ Showroom Series, the My Hands Shiraz is an opulent and powerful Barossa shiraz that has been likened to both Henschke’s Hill of Grace and Torbreck’s Laird. A must-have for any lovers of big Aussie reds.